22 May 2011

Tension in Athens

  Athens has been especially tense for the last ten days.  Social and political conflict is escalating.  Ten days ago at the general strike, riot police beat an anarchist demonstrator into a coma and hospitalized dozens more.  When repressive governments feel that they are losing control, when they fear the spread of an idea, they resort to brutal repression.  One only needs to look to Syria right now to see this at its extreme.  As the ruling class clings to power in times of crisis, intimidation becomes the weapon of choice to assert dominance.

  After the unprovoked attack by the police on the tail end of the general strike demonstration, protesters responded to the police onslaught with a barrage of rocks, powerful fireworks, and molotov cocktails.  Running street battles flared throughout downtown Athens, migrating towards the friendly streets of Exarchia.  Dumpsters again burned in the streets to block the movement of riot police.  Dozens of young anarchists carried out hit and run attacks on riot police from the Polytechnic University, a place police are forbidden to enter.  Hundreds more occupied Exarchia square and the streets surrounding it.  Firefighters arrived when police could clear an area long enough for them to extinguish the burning dumpsters and barricades.  The march started at 11 am, and the street fighting didn't end that night until 8 pm.

  That night an assembly was called to figure out an appropriate response.  The plan was to have it at the usual venue for anarchist assemblies, the Architectural campus of the Polytechnic.  Unfortunately the school was surrounded by riot cops, and the meeting had to be moved to the nearby Economics campus.  Despite the change, about a hundred people showed up.  One person introduced the topic and demonstrators discussed it for the next three hours. The meeting had neither a facilitator nor a formal process.  When one person was finished talking, someone else on the other side of the room would pick up and offer up their opinion.  The meeting was full of people who were constantly rubbing their eyes and sneezing as the smell of tear gas saturated into peoples clothes wafted out.  By midnight, they had decided that the next morning at 8:00 AM they would occupy the campus that was closest to downtown. There was going to be a demonstration against the police later that day, and holding that space was key to having a base to fight from.

  The next morning, the best in 90s Greek punk blared out onto the morning rush hour crowd from the steps of the newly occupied university.  A huge black banner reading "Dolofonoi" (Murderers) was draped down the front of the building.  The Greek flag on the top of the roof had been replaced by a red and black one, while slogans and circle-As were spray painted across the front walls.  Dozens of pissed off anarchists sat back and relaxed as confused passersby gawked on their way to work.  Throughout the day hundreds of people gathered on the steps and in the halls.  A communiqué was written and posted to the internet in both Greek and English.  Thousands of flyers about the previous day's police beatings, the occupation, and the 5pm anti-police demonstration were handed out to everyone on the busy street.

  By the time of the march, over 5,000 people had assembled.  Hundreds of participants wore or carried motorcycle helmets and wielded wooden rods mounted with black and red flags.  The only police presence was a small squad of riot cops a few blocks away and about five more intelligence officers standing on the top of a building attempting to photograph demonstrators’ faces.  Throughout the night the police maintained a considerable distance  from the march, which was quite different than at the general strike, which was heavily policed.  The assumption was that this distance was for their own safety.  When the cops did get within throwing range, they were pelted with the usual projectiles (rocks, molotovs, and fireworks), as well as small propane canisters which were detonated by the (Greek equivalent to) M80s that were taped to them.

  Experienced street fighters came prepared with hammers in order to break off chunks of marble from walls, steps, and planters, providing endless munitions for attacking the cops.  Throughout the evening, most of the militant demonstrators ended up back on the steps of the university.  Again, whenever the police were close enough, they were met with a rain of stones.  Another assembly was taking place within the safety of the campus.  After a few hours of discussion, they decided to leave the university in order to fight against another enemy -- fascists.

  A few days earlier, a man was mugged for a camera near Victoria Square as he left his home in the early morning to go with his pregnant wife to the hospital.  He resisted the mugging and was stabbed three times by his attackers, who fled and left him to die.  This area is home to scores of migrants, and Greek fascists capitalized on this fact to incite brutal pogroms against anyone who didn't look Greek. Over a hundred people were attacked the following week, almost 50 were stabbed, one was killed, a number of businesses were ransacked, and countless more individuals were chased away.  A far-right group called Golden Dawn (of which hundreds of police officers from Athens belong to) headed the campaign of violence, as the Nazi concept of collective punishment was implemented by these crazed nationalists.  As expected, the police let it happen.  Several videos have been posted to the internet of the police standing by idly as mobs of fascists beat immigrants.  Another video filmed from an apartment balcony shows the police letting two fascists out of the back of a police car and replacing them with two migrants, presumably to keep the number of arrests from a fascist demonstration in line with what they had reported to their higher ups.

   Anarchists and Antifascists geared up and organized a massive resistance to these racist attacks.  The squat of Villa Amalias is situated only a block from Victoria Square, an area that fascists are attempting to 'cleanse' of migrants.  Inside the gates to the courtyard of the squat sits a neatly organized arsenal of rocks, sticks, and bottles as well as dozens of helmets.  The anarchists would be attacked by riot police if they were to occupy the square, which would probably scare off anybody using the space, migrant or otherwise, and thereby defeat the purpose of making the space safe for immigrants.  The strategy then was to wait at the squat for the fascists to come to the square, then to ambush them.  The fascists have been occupying an intersection about 6 blocks from the park, and after a few failed attempts to attack migrants and the squat itself, they seemed to have learned that their stupidity will get them hurt.

  A day after the fascists and riot police mounted a failed attack against Skaramanga, another nearby squat, the media began reporting on the rampant violence in the city. The police PR machine ensured the 'objective' journalists of the corporate press that they were doing everything in their power to curb the attacks against migrants, and that they were working hard to preserve order.   Subsequently, the mainstream media depicts police as the saviors in this chaos.  These events were a convenient distraction from the economic crisis that plagues Greece, and the police are quick to ensure people that they are the only ones who can 'bring order' to this tense situation.   Antifascist demonstrations, attacks on fascists themselves, and self-defense by migrants are the only things actually keeping immigrants here safe.

  Athens is a city where the ordinary citizen has very little faith in the police.  They are generally untrusted and seen as brutal right-wing gangs.  If you call the police in need of help, they are unlikely to even show up.  However, they occupy street corners in full riot gear, always at the ready to administer justice as they see fit.  One week ago from today, a group of about 50 anarchists attacked the police station in Exarchia with stones and fire.  Several police cruisers and motorcycles were burned, as well as a few personal motorcycles owned by cops.  As the group left it was perused by a motorcycle cop.  The anarchists nailed his vehicle with a molotov and the officer fled. The motorcycle exploded and injured three people who were at a nearby market, including a flower seller who was seriously hurt.  A few days later, members of the group wrote a statement clarifying the intentions of the attack and expressing deep regrets for the injuries.

  Many anarchists here are drawing comparisons between this event and the burning of the Marfin Bank one year ago that left three bank workers dead, an event that has been paralyzing to militants, who are now calling their tactics at demonstrations into question.  Both events have been labeled as reckless attacks carried out in total disregard for human life.  But there is a huge difference between recklessness and accidents.  Police vehicles, in the collective experience of the people here who burn them regularly, do not typically explode.  The injuries caused by this event are terrible reminders that yes, injuries to innocent people will happen.  Every possible precaution could be taken in preparation for an action, but there is no guarantee that nothing will go wrong.  Yes, this event is regretful and tragic, but does it actually devalue the message that was sent to the police?  The brutality that was carried out against protesters on May 11th will not be tolerated.

  Between the brutal general strike beatings, anti-police demonstrations, fascist pogroms against migrants, anti-fascist demonstrations, attacks on the squats, regular street battles with police, injuries from the exploding motorcycle, and a failing economy, the anarchists in Athens have felt an abrupt escalation of the intensity in social struggle.  Only a few weeks ago people were talking about life here being in a slump.  Anarchist activity was in a lull and they weren't sure how exciting the prospects were.  But today they are struggling to find time to rest as they go from meeting to demonstration to assembly to their job (if they managed to land a job) or to school.  As the outlook for the economy worsens, the prospect of more intense conflict rises. 

  Economic instability and a widespread growing distrust for capitalism equals more people looking towards radical solutions to find a better world to live in.  While a few are distracted or even enticed by the anti-foreigner message of the fascists, an expanding section of society is looking farther towards the left for solutions, and a growing number of those people look even further, towards anarchism.  The politicians here and the police that protect them and the capitalist agenda fear this.  They fear the example set by anarchists, and are doing everything in their power to both demonize them and to show others the kind of repression they will direct towards people who stand up against them.  But the Greeks have a long history of standing up against state repression.  In many ways the whole world is watching Greece.  As governments are challenged and toppled in Northern Africa, people are watching from afar wondering if the economic crisis will be enough to tip the scale and send Greece on its way to becoming be the first European country, the first democracy, to collapse under the weight of massive social upheaval.

  In less than one week, Athens will host one of the largest anarchist gatherings in the world, which will bring somewhere between 20,000 and 40,000 radicals together for a five day event featuring speakers, workshops, movie premiers, and live music. Anarchists from across the globe will congregate in a city that is famous for being a center for radical militancy against the state.  It is unlikely that anything historical will happen, but with so many anarchists in one place at a time with so much social tension, things have the potential to get very interesting.

More photos

11 May 2011

May 11 General Strike Photos

For now, here is a link to the photos I took at the general strike today. Check the Occupied London Blog for the most up-to-date information.  It is 10:30pm right and there are emergency assemblies and demonstrations in progress in response to a demonstrator being put into a coma by riot police earlier today.

10 May 2011

Hit And Run Mayday, Prospects For The Strike

    I'm sitting in a third story apartment in Exarchia, looking out over the neighborhood and wondering what the coming week will bring.  It's sunny, but nowhere near as warm as it usually is this time of year.  A cool breeze carries clouds through the sky, which periodically block the sun.  The weather report says it will be the same on Wednesday, the day of the general strike, but it has been wrong almost every day so far.

    Last week it rained.  Everyone thought it was going to rain on Mayday.  It didn't.  People wore long pants and jackets to the march, hoping to stay warm and dry, only to be greeted with the warmest day of the week.  There were about 5,000 people who met in front of the Museum, and about a third were anarchists.  The last time I saw that many anarchists in one place in the US was in 2008 in St. Paul for the RNC, which resulted in a series of riots, over eight hundred arrests, and national corporate media coverage about the failure of law enforcement and the 'danger' posed by anarchists.  Friends and comrades were caught up in court for years, and many were sent to sit behind bars for months or years to regret what they had done.  I  suspect most just regretted being caught.  I also suspect the city of St. Paul might not be so eager to host another major convention any time soon.

    In Athens though, this was clearly not enough anarchists to do anything.  A lot of people who live here share a collective experience in street-fighting with police and attacking capitalist and nationalist property.  It was pretty clear to them that with so few at the march it could not be done safely.  To see this many anarchists in one place decide to avoid confrontation was somewhat sobering to experience, causing me to think back at all the protests I've attended that had far fewer militants, got crazy fast, and ended with at least a few arrests.  Despite the unspoken decision towards non-confrontation there was still a fair amount of taunting directed at the police, which was in some ways, much more confrontational than protests back home.  This played out in the form of yelling, throwing trash and full water bottles, and setting off the Greek equivalent of M80s between riot cops.  Despite being provoked, it seemed that police were equally cautious about starting a fight.  They've seen things spiral out of their control more than a few times in recent memory.

     The march slowly made its way down a main boulevard towards Parliament, flanked on both sides by lines of riot cops, and then tensely changed course and worked its way towards Exarchia, where most of the demonstrators dispersed.  A contingent of about two hundred anarchists casually gathered at Exarchia Square.  After milling about, drinking water, and relaxing, people started gearing up to go back out.  A group of people a decade younger than me started gathering near the statue to prepare for battles with the police.  They gathered stones and molotov cocktails without any fear of police intervention.  The square is safe.  Cops don't come here.  They know that to enter the park means war.  In any case they were blocks away and nobody who frequents this park would ever call them… or be upset to see them in flames.

    With a burst of energy, everyone left the park.  The youngest people were at the front.  At every intersection, 10-20 people stayed behind and took up defensive positions, to provide a safe avenue back to the Square and to keep an eye out for police ambushes.  These groups were in constant communication with each other, letting others know when it was safe and when it wasn't.  Everyone had stones; if only enough to keep the police from being overconfident.  In Exarchia, especially on the day of a big demonstration, there are groups of riot police in various intersections and in front of common targets (like the PASOK headquarters or the police station).  One of these unlucky contingents was attacked.  Rocks and molotovs flew.  The police answered with tear gas.  After a few exchanges and an unsuccessful police charge, the crowd slipped down its pre-existing safety corridor back to the Square.

     After a half hour the group geared back up and went out again. This time building barricades in the streets along the escape route with burning dumpsters.  A computer store that was looted and burned in December of 2008 had just re-opened about two weeks earlier.  It had already been robbed of a few laptops a few days earlier.  After another group of police was attacked with more rocks and molotovs, the crowd refocused its energy onto attacking the computer shop, doing a fair amount of damage considering the security gates were down.  After about ten minutes the police attacked, only to be met by a hailstorm of rocks.  There was some commotion coming from one of the groups at the intersection two blocks away near the park.  The cops were flanking!  Everyone bolted back to the square, and as most there had already fled, continued up into the nearby streets, with the police in close pursuit.   After giving chance for a few blocks and not catching anyone, the police left the area and life returned to normal.  People in cafes went back to their conversations, businesses opened their gates back up, and dumpsters burned in the streets.

    Back in the square people talked.  Some were happy about the excitement, while others thought such attacks were pointless and only invited the police into the square.  Things were back to normal.  The prospect of altering the government's idea of what the future should look like was dead for the day. There's always next week. The general strike is next Wednesday, when everyone will be back in town from their long easter vacations.  Everyone knows that their future has been stolen away.  Some people are ready to take it back.

   There is talk here that the unions want the general strike to last until Friday.  The situation is complicated for the unions.  On one hand they know that their members aren't content with the way things have been going, but on the other hand, the union leadership is so comfortable with the socialist ruling party of the government that they would never seek to actually threaten it.  Their job then, is to diffuse people's anger without letting it get out of their control.  To maintain this balance they call a general strike every few months.  On these occasions downtown Athens is filled with smoke and tear gas as a battle rages between the more enraged demonstrators who attempt to escalate the conflict into something more than a symbolic march through the streets.

     Is this rumor merely hopeful gossip by anarchists who wish it was true? Is it a hint that the unions aren't content with the government who's pocket in which they comfortably rest? Perhaps the unions are simply not afraid that it will spark a conflict that they won't be able to manage.  Over the next few days we'll see how this plays out, but for now all anyone can do is speculate.  Some people here are painfully optimistic.  "The next December '08!"  Others are less hopeful.  "Nothing will happen," they say.  But regular people in this city are angry.  There is a lot of potential for things to explode.  But anarchists here are apprehensive.  The events of last year's May 5th demonstration that led to the death of three bank workers has paralyzed many who were extremely active, and the police and media are doing everything they can to demonize anarchists.  Is this open wound too debilitation to overcome? This, coupled with state repression, is taking its toll, but can people break out of this slump and work again toward reclaiming their futures?

    Here in Greece, people do battle in the streets one day, and build community gardens the next.  Militancy and social projects are not mutually exclusive, and in fact they thrive off of each other.  There are between 40 and 50 anarchists spaces in this town, from squats to social centers to gardens to free stores.  Anarchists here know that to create the world they want to see they must remove the barriers that prevent them from doing so.  The police are in the way. Capitalism is in the way.  Even mainstream social standards are in the way.  What will it take to remove these obstacles?

Nobody here pretends to know The Answer to that question.  What they do know is that it wont be easy.  As their comrades are hauled off to prison and the corporate media run articles that read like police press releases, they feel the heat of repression breathing down their necks.  Will it derail this powerful movement?  Perhaps the general strike will provide a glimpse into what is to come. Perhaps it wont.  In this struggle to transform society, there are no answers. There is only transition.

More photos...

30 April 2011

Some Context for Social Upheaval in Greece

  By anyone's standards there are a lot of anarchists in Athens.  Upwards of 5,000 in fact.  Every single one of these people knows they are a small minority compared to the city's overall population.  For any drastic changes to society that they hope for, in fact work towards, they know that their ideas need to spread.  When the country exploded into riots back in 2008, a huge portion of society rose up against the police and the government.  Back then the economy was much stronger than it is today.

  Right now the Greek government is being compelled by the European Union and the International Monetary Fund (IMF) to enact a number of 'adjustments' in order to get the country's finances back in order.  Workers here are taking huge pay cuts, losing benefits, pensions are being plundered, and social programs are being slashed.  The people here are also facing devastating rising costs.  Taxes are up, gasoline has doubled in price over the past year, and the price of food is rising.  The EU has asked the Greek population to 'tighten their belts,' as the faltering economy drags the value of the Euro down. 

  "We'll tighten the belt around your fucking neck" is scrawled across the a building in Athens.  A fitting response, considering all of the pain the people here have been feeling.  Perhaps it was an anarchist, but perhaps not.  As you might imagine, there is a considerable amount discontent with the government.  There have been huge, violent demonstrations in response to the economic crisis over the past few months as anger has started to boil over into rage.
  Residents from the Athenian suburb of Keratea have been fighting off government plans to start construction of a landfill, which is an IMF mandated infrastructural project.  Locals contend that there will be massive environmental damage, contamination of the local groundwater, devastation to local archeological sites, and simply don't want to be a toilet for Athens.  The plans went forward without input or consent of the locals, and as a result the town erupted into a full-fledged rebellion.  When riot police were sent in from the capital to enforce the plans, the locals made a decision that was obvious to them: they called the anarchists.  This led to a powerful alliance between experienced militant demonstrators and an infuriated community. Together over the next four and a half months barricades were erected, street battles were fought and won, police stations were attacked, and construction was successfully prevented.  Less than two weeks ago, the occupying army of Athenian riot cops abandoned the city.  While the official plans for construction are still in place, most people believe they are unwilling to carry them out. 

  The state is afraid of the Mayday demonstration.  Just yesterday the police carried out a publicity stunt and arrested three anarchists, claiming they had something to do with the firebombing of a bank that took place one year ago a few days after Mayday, which made international headlines as three bank employees were killed.  After the news picked up the story last night, the three were released and told to return for questioning on May 5th, the anniversary of the deaths.  Most anarchists here believe this operation was carried out solely for the purpose of scaring people from attending the march.  Everyone already knows it will be small this year, perhaps only a few thousand, because Mayday falls on a Sunday and there will be less people in Athens.

  One thing is certain about this demonstration.  Anarchists and anti-authoritarians will be there in droves.  A group called "High School Students With Memory" has put out a call for demonstrations.  There was an entire generation of 14 and 15 year-olds who cut their teeth street-fighting with police during the December 2008 riots, and these people are now young adults who feel that their future has  been stolen from them.  These students will march alongside thousands of anarchists, workers, and unemployed in a city where protests regularly turn violent.  Mayday is just an appetizer for the feast that tens, perhaps hundreds, of thousands more will enjoy together on May 11th at the general strike.  The police and the media will do everything they can to marginalize anarchists and shift the rage of the Greek people away from the government and towards one another.  The bonds that have formed between anarchists and non-anarchists have been growing quickly over the past several years,  and work is being done to make sure that the State's strategy of divide and conquer is transparent and ineffective.  All of the pieces are in place for a confrontation that has the potential to drastically alter the future for capitalism in this region.

More photos...

26 April 2011

Exarchia, Crisis, and a General Strike

  The streets of Exarchia are nearly empty.  Most Athenians have left town for Easter, one of the biggest holidays of the year here, so these regularly bustling streets are dead.  The shops and cafes have their security gates locked down, revealing colorful anti-authoritarian spray painted art.  Images of rioters wearing gas masks, slogans against capitalism and government, and tributes to imprisoned militants cover the walls of nearly every building, revealing a glimpse into the counter-culture that usually thrives here.

  Exarchia is known throughout Athens as the center of  social struggles.  This densely packed neighborhood has a reputation as being anti-establishment and is home to students, anarchists, artists, and leftists of all stripes.  A month of nationwide rioting was sparked in December 2008 when a 15 year-old local high school student and anarchist was shot and killed by police near Exarchia Square.  Most Athenians hate the police, and when this young boy was murdered the whole country exploded.  On the corner where Alexis was shot, his mother has mounted a memorial plaque which has his photo as well as the following words (translated from greek):

 "Here on the 6th of December 2008, without any reason, a child's smile was extinguished from the innocent fifteen-year-old Alexis Grigoropoulous by the bullets of unapologetic killers."

  Signs of the December 2008 riots can still be found here.  A government building that housed the Ministry of Finance stands empty; a burned out shell of what it once was.  Windows are still cracked on other buildings, political slogans are not fully washed away, and spray painted stencils of Alexis can be found on marble pillars throughout the city.

  This neighborhood is home to the Polytechnic University, where many confrontations between students and police have taken place.  In Greece, cops aren't allowed on universities.  On November 17, 1973, dozens of students rebelling against the military government were gunned down by troops at the height of a massive protest movement.  Only a few months later, the government fell and was replaced by a modern Democracy.  Greeks have not forgotten this event and are on guard against attacks on their freedoms.  They are especially sensitive to police incursions onto universities, and are often forced off by students and anarchists who refuse to let history repeat itself.

  Mayday is just around the corner, and only ten days later is a general strike.  The Polytechnic campus in Exarchia will undoubtedly be at the heart of many confrontations that will take place in this coming month.  The Greek economy is in shambles, workers are under attack, and the people who live in this country are furious.  Everyone here is talking about the general strike as something that has the potential to start a revolution.  Many are comparing the current crisis to the crashing of the Argentinian economy in 2001, which lead to massive rioting by all sections of the population.  Ten years have passed since then and the Greek government is in a very similar situation. They are trapped by the high value of the Euro, and are being forced to financially attack their own people by the IMF and the European Union.  Greece is a powder keg. Will the May 11th general strike be the spark?

More photos...

24 April 2011

Americans are Notoriously Bad at Geography and I'm No Exception.

    I've been talking about taking this trip for the past two years.  Most who have heard me talking about it probably didn't last more than 6 months before coming to terms with the likelihood that it wouldn't happen.  Up until a month ago when I bought a plane ticket I was pretty sure I'd never make it to Athens, but at 4:30 AM last Wednesday I left Santa Cruz and headed East.

    Loaded down with a backpack full of cameras and taralles I took off from new york on Turkish Air, by far the nicest airline I've ever flown on (they give you socks!).  I sat next to and chatted with grad student from Istanbul who had been giving lectures in the US for the past few weeks on the displacement of Romas in rural Turkey.  She taught me how to say 'Thank You', (teşekkür ederim), which I promptly forgot.  Ten hours later landed in Turkey.  I ran across the airport to catch my next flight during my brief layover, boarded a plane for Greece, and in less than two hours I arrived in Athens.

    Greece must be starving for tourists right now, because the customs agent didn't even look at the picture in my passport before he stamped it and set me loose in his country.  After reading so much about the pickpockets who would be waiting in swarms for tourists at the airport in Athens I was disappointed to find the place nearly empty.  I presume they were all at home with their families roasting whole lambs for Easter weekend, along with everyone else in the city.

    I hopped onto a train heading into town and met a nice Londoner who was headed to the same hostel as me, so we braved the trek together, checked in, then ventured out to eat.  After some fried zucchini, chickpea salad, and a couple of dolmas, a strange ominous chanting rose out from the streets.  Small groups worshiping Christianity's undead deity (scary!) wandered through the streets.  I fell asleep to the sound of explosions as jubilant Greeks set off loud fireworks (small bombs) in celebration the their most important holiday of the year.

22 April 2011

And So It Begins...

Here is my new blog for Insurgent Photo.  I plan on using it as a supplement to my flickr page and to keep you updated on my exploits.  I hope you find it as interesting as I find blogging to be dull.  If you've got it in you, take the time to leave a comment on a post so I know I'm not just writing to myself.  I suppose that's all for now!